There are many ways to house a reptile. As long as warmth and food are available then it is possible to maintain a number of small nocturnal species in very basic rack systems. This involves little more than shelves full of sliding plastic boxes that have limited amounts of soul. See the pic below - no James Brown to be found!
Many species, especially snakes, will thrive in these conditions - they feed and breed without issues. As such this system is often preferred by breeders who seek to profit from their animals and maximise production. Problem is that whilst the arrangement may be very functional, it is far from attractive. You can't easily view the animals going about their business because the containers are often not fully transparent and there is no additional illumination, either at day or night. Admittedly many ideal rack species such as royal pythons are far from active and you are not missing much, but what about more active snakes and lizards that like to roam and hunt insects. There is a lot more fun to be had watching these.
Our breeding projects are more for the experience than anything else. A combined family effort to create life and teach the kids important lessons along the way. We are not in this hobby for profit and like to gaze at attractive, naturalistic environments that could have been sliced from the animals' countries of origin. We like them to be windows to the natural world.
We had a bit of space under the existing vivarium arrangement and it was currently occupied by a set of Ikea Trofast toy shelves (pic below taken from the Ikea website), long since abandoned as the children have grown. We left a few of their purpose moulded plastic boxes in situ, as they provided useful storage for things like calcium powder, spare bulbs etc.
I glanced at the box dimensions one day and found myself wondering, on a hunch, if our battered old Exo Terra large, flat faunarium would slot into the gap. So I conducted a test and could not believe how well it went in. Nice and snug so that the lid was locked firmly onto the plastic base. There was literally no way it could fall open.

Now up until this point I had planned to introduce some new additions (Nephrurus amyae, the Centralian Knob Tailed gecko) into purpose built vivariums that would slot into the space between the Trofast walls. Problem is they would have been very high and not ideal for a secretive nocturnal species that likes to feel secure. Of course I could have sliced the height in half but now I had an opportunity to save some cash! There was also the problem of getting furnishings through small sliding doors. If I could make the faunariums work somehow then that would not be an issue - the entire unit can slide out and the lid pops off. Alternatively there is a very large plastic window in the lid that is perfect for fitting larger items like hides. Also Nephrurus amyae likes very low humidity and in a damp country like England, it is normally around 45-50% in most rooms by default. A heavily vented faunarium is perfect for reducing the humidity - especially during the day - as warm air rapidly escapes and you can push it down around 30 - 40%. That is not something you can easily achieve in a typical wooden vivarium.
But what I really did not want, was a hideous standard rack arrangement where the inhabitants sit in soulless plastic containers. We needed to maintain the naturalistic theme of our other vivariums.
So I created a design that would incorporate standard incandescent bulbs into the limited space of a faunarium. The extra large flat faunarium - of which this is one - are pretty decent sized, but the height is lacking. They are designed for hatchlings and small adult terrestrial species. They are also designed to be used with heat mats, but IMO this is unnatural and not ideal. When we consider the huge amount of ventilation in the lids, then it is easy to install low wattage bulbs without fear of over heating. I wrote an article some time ago that argued a thermostat is not even necessary in vivariums, so long as you size the wattage appropriately and don't live in a hot country!
So first things first, let's measure up and fit two incandescent bulb holders - one for day (25w bulb) and one for night (15w blue bulb).
We need to secure the bulb holders with 4mm nuts and bolts. This will lock them tight.
After that has been done, and all wiring completed, we need to drill holes for the wires. The plastic is tough enough not to break, so long as you are not too aggressive.
After this we can rack and roll, as it were! But even 15 watt and 25 watt bulbs get hot to touch (more on the sides than bottom), so we need a way of protecting our animals from burns. This is, remember, a low ceiling and even terrestrial animals could get themselves too close to the heat source at times.
My solution to this problem was to purchase four £1.50 bird seed holders from Homebase and cut them down to size. They fit perfectly around the plastic bulb necks and with the lid installed they are locked into position.
The lights are then placed on timers (which all indoor reptile vivariums need for proper seasonal control) and hey presto, we have an attractive , illuminated enclosure that slots into an Ikea toy solution and utilises an old Exo Terra faunarium. A rack system, but not as we know it!
With the sand and hides added it is visually appealing and I will be adding some freehand acrylic desert paint designs to remove any tape and cracks from view. Will post images when it is finished.
Initial temperature testing shows ideal ranges for the Nephrurus hatchlings that are soon to arrive and this way we can appreciate our additions care of artificial moonlight, rather than an opaque plastic box preventing visual interaction with our pets.
It was fun as a mini project and things like this keep life interesting. The kids thought it was a brilliant solution and really enjoyed helping me plan the design. It helped them to realise what can be achieved with a bit of imagination.
With a bit of luck these guys (see below) will soon be enjoying life in the new enclosures. We have installed two faunariums, as they are solitary in the wild. Also it is much easier to monitor feeding when animals are housed individually.